In pursuit of Excellence
Introducing the Roy Sweatshirt: Elevating Casual to Couture
When Roy’s design brief was nothing more than a product category—make a sweatshirt—it felt like assisted suicide, just participating in making stuff.
Working with Turkey, resulted in many details being lost in emails and phone calls.
Turning local, we came face to face with the fact that high-quality products, like in many of our neighbouring countries, are the heart and soul of France. It's ingrained in the culture; if it's not sublime and not worth starting a revolution for, we're not interested. The people who knew the techniques to make beautiful products were closer than we thought but often weren't asked to do so.
Considering that the hooded sweatshirt, second only to blue jeans, has found its place among the world’s most popular garments—and is not only an intimate but also a practical item—it felt like a worthy and ambitious project.
Wave Texture set out to create a sweatshirt that could echo our desire to embrace our French roots of excellence while addressing our contemporary lifestyle—a challenging task. Since we were entering an industry known to be the third biggest polluter, our contribution had to be exceptional.
We envisioned an exaggerated silhouette to convey presence and robustness, brought to life through intricate details. These subtleties are like whispered secrets to the wearer—known only to them, but making all the difference.
We believe this is where the emotional attachment to our favorite clothes originates. The meaning and experiences we've had while wearing them are known only to us, creating a unique and special bond.
Finally since we would start from the drawing board, the hood had to offer the type of seclusion that a monk could seek. Offering the opportunity to fully remove oneself.
We sought a weave that would make you feel like you were truly putting on something special, yet also provide the unique, cosy comfort that a sweatshirt can offer—making you feel at home away from home. The outside had to be jet black, for looks and for elegance.
During our initial sourcing process, we concluded that finding a textile with a thread count of 450 gsm would be a success, given this was the competition's average. From Italian mills to Premiere Vision, samples were piling up, but none met our standards.
Until we came across a gem in the rough—a French mill located outside Paris. We shared our ambition for this elusive cloth, and within minutes, after a short walk from the office into the warehouse, we were presented with the heavyweight terry cotton cloth we use today at 500 gsm. It matched and exceeded all of our specifications, and to our delight, it was also 100% organic.
We understand that even for our French customers, calling a sweatshirt a "veste," which refers to a light jacket, may raise eyebrows. Opting to create a zip-through design instead of a kangaroo pocket meant that, if well-executed, it could be worn as a top layer. This would create an elevated look, whether paired with a shirt underneath or matched with a more tailored top coat, with only the hood appearing on the shoulders.
This meant the zipper was going to be a fundamental aspect. We owe it to an Italian bootmaker, Guidi, for introducing us to a special finish where both sides of the zipper’s teeth are polished, creating an impressive jewellery-like reflection when caught in the light.
As we researched, tested and finalised the list of supplies to create Roy, we contemplated how one could express style and identity with nothing but the sum of its essential parts. Where the silhouette, the drape, and the sewing lines of the garments create its personality with no extras.
From this reflection, the arrow cuff was born—a detail that, in its execution, creates a unique and refined feature on the wrist, serving the same purpose but with unparalleled elegance.
Finally finding the right manufacturer was a journey of its own, but it led to some interesting discoveries.
One used a piece of jersey to line the rough ribbon from the zipper on the inside. Leading us to consider what if like unlined cashmere coats, or couture dresses, the inner seams were lined with sewing bias, to prevent friction, underline the garment’s construction in a beautiful way and create a sense of touch specific to our garment.
Just as we considered expressing style with no frills, we didn't want to become the type of label that entrusts production to an atelier knowing the garment would be fraught with issues. On the contrary, what fueled our experience and allowed us to present the Roy we have today was careful consideration and understanding of how techniques come together to create a garment.
We learned how thickness can break the needle at certain parts, how tension needs to be adjusted for consistent stitching, and how all elements must share a common quality to work together harmoniously—something rigid cannot be mounted with something soft.
In between our development process and finding a manufacturer that would be willing to adjust to reach excellent results, Roy led us, ultimately, through nine different ateliers.
The result is a minimal garment that feels maximal, but only you, the wearer, would know.
We are proud to say it is sourced and produced entirely in France. Roy represents not just a piece of clothing, but a statement of values and a testament to meticulous craftsmanship. It bridges the gap between our fast-paced modern lives and the heritage that has undeniably shaped our surroundings.
Soon, we will publish an article exploring the remarkable development of Roy’s limited edition, created in partnership with the esteemed House of Lesage. To stay informed about our latest product releases, subscribe to our newsletter. Thank you for your interest.
